India is a land of diverse crafts, and one of its most celebrated traditions is leather and accessories craftsmanship. Today, we have the privilege of speaking with Kamal, a talented artisan hailing from the vibrant city of Jaipur, Rajasthan. Mr Kamal will take us on a journey through the art of working with leather and vegan leather fabrics now, the challenges and rewards of this timeless craft, and the cultural significance of his work.
***Translated from Hindi /Dialect to English***
Interviewer (Shilpi) : Thank you Kamal for joining us today. To begin, could you tell us a bit about your background and how you got started in the world of leather craftsmanship?
Kamal: Dhanyawaad, My journey in leather craftsmanship began in my family. I come from a long line of artisans, and I was fortunate enough to learn the craft from my father and grandfather. I grew up watching them create exquisite leather goods, and their passion for the craft ignited a fire in me. So, it was only natural for me to follow in their footsteps and carry forward our family's legacy.
Interviewer: That's a wonderful heritage to inherit. Could you explain what leather craftsmanship entails and the different techniques involved in creating products?
Kamal: Certainly. Leather craftsmanship is a multidimensional art that involves transforming raw animal hides into beautiful and functional products. Nowadays the leather is readily available, so we don't need to process the leather. The process typically begins with selecting high-quality leather hides, which can come from various animals, including cows, goats, and sheep. The type of leather chosen depends on the desired product's characteristics. Nowadays we only trim and skive though at best. We have stareted working extensively with alternate and organic leather forms, some call it vegan leather, cork leather etc.
Interviewer: It's evident that your craftsmanship is a meticulous and labor-intensive process. Could you shed some light on the types of products you create, and do you have any personal favorites among them?
Kamal: Absolutely. I specialize in crafting a wide range of products, including handbags, wallets, belts. I have also learn to work on footwears but it is a specialised skill now. Artisans who do accessories generally do not hand-craft footwears and vice-versa. Among these, I have a special affinity for creating handbags. There's something incredibly satisfying about crafting a beautiful bag that not only serves a practical purpose but also showcases the artistry and craftsmanship of leather. I also love to combine traditional fabrics with leather and leatherette these days, something that I learnt working on designs of some of my pricicipals.
Handbags come in various styles, from totes, jholas, and clutches to satchels and backpacks, and each offers a unique set of design challenges and opportunities. It's a versatile canvas for creativity.
Interviewer: Your passion for handbags is evident. Can you tell us about the types of leather you prefer to work with and why?
Kamal: The choice of leather is crucial to the final product's quality and characteristics. Personally, I prefer to work with full-grain leather. Full-grain leather is the top layer of the hide, which retains the natural grain and imperfections of the animal's skin. It's the most durable and highest quality leather available.
I appreciate full-grain leather for its unique textures, patina development, and longevity. As it ages, it develops a beautiful, distinctive patina that adds character to the product. Full-grain leather also has a certain heft and tactile quality that I find very appealing. Unfortunately, such material is expensive and it is being replaced by other cheaper materials.
Interviewer: Your explanation highlights the depth of understanding required in your craft. What are some of the challenges you face as a leather artisan, and how do you overcome them?
Kamal: Leather craftsmanship certainly has its challenges. One of the primary challenges is to get work continuously. I try to maintain strong relationships with several customers who come to me for their requirements of upto 1000 peices. Humaare banaaye hue items videsh bhi jaatein hai. (Smiles)
Another challenge is competition from mass-produced, factory produced leather products. These products flood the market and can often be cheaper than handcrafted goods. Thanks to the likes of Chestkraft and other brands which promote and value the authenticity, craftsmanship, and longevity of handmade products. By emphasizing these qualities, I can distinguish my work from mass-produced alternatives.
Interviewer: It's clear that your commitment to quality sets your work apart. Could you share a particularly memorable experience or achievement from your journey as a leather artisan?
Kamal: One of the most memorable experiences in my career was when a renowned fashion magazine featured my handcrafted leather handbag collection for one of the designers who had outsourced work to us. It was a moment of immense pride and validation for me. Seeing my creations showcased in a publication known for its appreciation of craftsmanship and design was truly gratifying.
Another memorable moment was when a customer, who had purchased one of my bags, sent me a heartfelt letter expressing her appreciation for the craftsmanship.
Interviewer: Those sound like remarkable moments of recognition and fulfillment. As we conclude, what do you envision for the future of traditional leather craftsmanship in India?
Kamal: I envision a bright future for traditional leather craftsmanship in India. While modernization and technology continue to influence the craft, there's a timeless appeal to handcrafted products that can't be replicated by machines. I hope to see a growing appreciation and awareness for the artistry and heritage of leather craftsmanship.
Ultimately, I hope to see traditional craftsmanship thriving, with artisans passing down their skills and passion to the next generation, ensuring that this rich heritage endures. This is only possible if we have an ecosystem where the artisans can make a decent living from their handcraft.
Interviewer: Thank you for sharing your insights and passion for hand- craftsmanship. Your dedication to preserving tradition while embracing innovation is truly inspiring, and we wish you continued success in your craft.
Kamal: Thank you for having me, maa'm.
**Both greet each other with folded hands and conclude the discussion**